Women of the Sea

Quite possibly my favorite place in South Korea was Jeju Island. I would wake to the sound of the sea and fall asleep to the ocean’s steady hush. Jeju-do has a culture all its own, shaped largely by the Haenyo — the women free divers who have supported their families for generations by harvesting seafood.

Seeing the Haenyo at work, and learning about their history, is a powerful experience. Visitors from around the world come to Jeju not only for its volcanic coastline and dramatic scenery, but to witness these women’s skill, strength, and resilience.

As I jogged along a path that clung to jagged volcanic rock, I thought of my mother. Jeju is often called the Hawaii of South Korea — a honeymoon and vacation destination my mother once mentioned, but never had the chance to visit. Born in Seoul in 1936, she grew up in a country left impoverished after colonization and war. Travel and personal ambition were luxuries she could not afford.

Watching the Haenyo, I saw echoes of my mother in their faces and in their work. We might romanticize these divers, but their lives were defined by necessity. While men and sons were conscripted into military service, these women carried the burden of providing for their families. Their work is dangerous, physical, and requires years of training and hard-won expertise.

When I decided to go to college while my oldest daughter was still an infant, I told my mother about my plans. She answered simply that doing something she wanted to do had never been an option. Her words were not meant to wound, but they stung — a reminder of the limited choices women of her generation often faced.

Seeing the Haenyo and remembering my mother reinforced a truth: women have always stepped up and done what needed to be done, however difficult the circumstances. Their quiet courage and relentless care shape families and communities, across islands and generations.